Garment Overview

Women’s mourning capelet of black cotton with a black silk faille yoke and beaded netting draped across the shoulders. The flared shape ends in a full hem at the waist. Bugle bead embellishment on the faille yoke creates a swirling motif, with faille extending around the center front opening of the cape over shoulders ending in a low point on the back of the garment. The band collar also is embellished with beading. A beaded-netting overlay extends from the edges of the yoke over the shoulders of the garment; larger beads highlight where threads cross, and the edges are finished with a beaded fringe. The hook-and-eye closure is hidden at the center front near the collar. The condition includes the loss of beads and some of the faille. There may have been an alteration to the collar, as it has been rolled down and hand-stitched.

Designer unknown (American), ca.1890s
Donated by Roseann Rawls
Texas Fashion Collection, University of North Texas

Video host: Annette Becker, director, Texas Fashion Collection.

Interested in checking out this garment?

Host a garment in your classroom by contacting the Onstead Institute at onstead@unt.edu or 940-565-3954 for more information. Garments are available to K-12 teachers in the Dallas-Fort Worth area. Items are located at the Texas Fashion Collection at the University of North Texas, Denton, Texas.

19th Century Capelet Lessons

Lesson 2.1 Clothing as Expression and Performance: Concept Development
The lesson engages in an object-based analysis of a Mourning Cape, highlighting how the design choices reflect the contextual and historical background of the garment. The activity asks students to consider how clothing is used to create a fashionable, social or performative personal expression.

2.1 Concept Development Lesson
2.1.1 Supporting document: Mourning dress examples
2.1.2 Supporting document: Etiquette manual
2.1.3 Supporting document: Fashion as Performance (article)
2.1.4 Making document: Paper doll pattern

Lesson 2.2 Clothing as Expression & Performance: Designing with Color
The lesson engages in an object-based analysis of a Mourning Cape, highlighting how the design choices reflect the contextual and historical background of the garment. The activity asks students to consider how color communicates an idea in art and design.

2.2 Designing with Color Lesson
2.2.1 Supporting document: Mourning dress examples
2.2.2 Supporting document: Color in Fashion (article)
2.2.3 Supporting document: Perspective space

Additional Images